Slowly, the engine of this airbus is warming up. I look out of the window, trying to impress a last mental picture of Guayquil.
The five-day business trip is far too short to appreciate this unique harbor city, 245 km south-southwest of the Equator line. (Ecuador got its name from this line circling the earth and dividing it in the northern and southern hemisphere. So technically, this is the first time I set my feet on the land of the southern hemisphere! :p)
Guayaquil is the largest port and most important commercial hub of Ecuador (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guayaquil). It locates on the Pacific coast, has a tropical climate, and is known as the ‘Pacific Pearl’. The city was named after an indigenous chief, "Guayas", and his wife, "Quil". Both of them chose to die before surrendering themselves to the Spaniards…
In my eyes, this city resembles another “Pearl" in the Pacific, the Pearl of the Orient - Hong Kong in the mid 70s. Well, Guayaquil certainly has its own flavor of Spanish heritage. It is one of the busiest ports in the region, renowned for its financial and commercial vigor. The Santa Ana hill land spreads gently along the coast line, offering spectacular views of the ocean and city night scene (which reminds me of the views from the top of the Tai Ping Mountain in HK). But residents here are a very different type. They are genuinely warm, happy, and friendly – most of them fantastic dancers, and chivalrous beer drinkers. Seldom do I see in their faces, the weight of life or pressure of achievement, which I so commonly find in those of the Hong Kongers…
The humming of my plane is getting more determined and rigorous. I wave a silent “ciao” to Guayaquil and draw down my window shield. I close my eyes and the pictures of Guayaquil start playing back in my mind:
Malecón 2000
Along Rio Guayas (Guayas River), it is a restoration project completed in year 2000 of the historic Simon Blivar Pier. Strolling along Malecon 2000 (about 3km), means not only shopping, street foods, monuments, palm trees, sceneries of Rio Guayas, but also 24 hours dance music, seafood and harbor cruise, beers and laughter…
Las Peñas and Cerro Santa Ana
At the end of Malecón 2000, there is Las Peñas, and Cerro Santa Ana, which has a magnificent view of the city and boasts the most famous “rouge district” of the country. From the foot of the hill toward the Faro (the Light House), there are 444 steps. Along the steps, there are cafes, lounges, restaurants and souvenir shops. I find it brews a similar spirit of Lan Kwai Fong in Central, Hong Kong Island. Only that Cerro Santa Ana is more than thrice the size of LKF, and poises with a picturesque blend of natural and architectural beauty that makes every “rouge district” in the world envy.
Parque Bolivar
Walking back towards the city center, you will find Parque Bolivar, which is also called Parque de las Iguanas, due to the large amount of iguanas living in the park. Some of these reptiles can be 5 feet long! It is the first time I see live iguanas in this size, adding more spice to the plate: these large reptiles just stroll around me with well displayed ease and dignity! Children play with them as if they are pet dogs and cats. Even reassured once and again by my tour guide that they are harmless, my fingers still find it hard to touch those rough and colorful skins of the iguanas… Well, I do take a lot of pictures with them though. :p
Salinas
About 2.5 hours drive from downtown Guayaquil, Salinas offers unspoiled beaches, and elaborate seafood treats. The sea has such a beautiful mix of color: yellow, grey, green, blue, dark blue, effortlessly blending into each with charm and harmony… The waves are not so tempting to encourage a surf, but are good enough to invite a pleasant sail. From time to time, giant seagulls hover over my head during the sail, spreading their wings blocking the sun – I guess I get a fairly good idea of what it means by “under the wings”. :) And surely, I very much enjoy their company.
Food
If you are a shrimp lover, you will find your paradise here. Shrimps, prawns and lobsters in Guayaquil have a more resilient texture, and sweeter, more potent after-tones. On Friday, I had the best seafood soup that I have ever had for years – in a downtown Sushi restaurant, called NOE (Guayaquil, as many other big cities in Latin America, has a good-size of Japanese immigrants). The city’s premium quality seafood makes sushi and sashimi truly appealing to even the most critical taste buds. Among all, the yellow tuna sashimi here is my favorite. I find its unique texture and richness few tuna dishes can compete.
And, if you are like me, having this weird habit of sampling chocolates from around the world, you will find Ecuadorian chocolate a wonderful addition to your collection. Pure, dark chocolate bars, made from the Arriba cocoa, grown only in Ecuador, offers the rich Arriba aromas, with a perfumed floral scent that sends the pleasure of chocolate tasting to a newfound land. Its flavor is smooth, with a dominant jasmine note and nutty after-tones.
A side note: Ecuador is the real “banana republic”. It produces and exports more bananas than any other country in the world. So in typical Ecuadorian restaurants, you will find bananas/plantain (in varied forms: chips, sweetened, fried, raw…) in almost every dish.
Music
The first thing that I notice in Guayaquil, is the dance music in the streets. In Ecuador, one of the more popular styles of music is the Pasillo, originated along the Ecuadorian coast. I find many classic Pasillo pieces presented in various restaurants, street parties and taxi radios. One of our Peruvian partners joked about how she was "shocked" by Ecuadorians' preference of "old music". But for me, Ecuadorians’ taste to the classic and pride of their own musical heritage are endearing.
Another popular style of music in the country is Sanjuanito. It has a more native tone, which is typical of the Ecuadorian mountainous area. I heard a wonderful piece of it on a taxi radio and was introduced to the genre by my tour guide. Sanjuanito originated as a cultural expression of indigenous tribes in the Andes deserts. Its tone is happier, very danceable and very old. In my harbor cruise on Thursday night, Sanjuanito was once played, and people danced to the music with happy, traditional steps. (Music of Ecuador: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Music_of_Ecuador)
Now my plane is at the 12,000 feet height, heading back to Miami. The warmth and moist of Guayaquil still stay in my skin. I wonder when I will be back to Ecuador...
Soon, perhaps. Three weeks ago, I applied in my church, for a short-term mission trip to the Ecuador jungles. If all goes well, I will be flying across the Equator line once again in August – with a different mission. J
April 27th, 2008
(Photos has been uploaded to this site.)
